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YORK is the north's most compelling city, a place whose history, said George VI, "is the history of England". This is perhaps overstating things a little, but it reflects the significance of a metropolis that until the Industrial Revolution was second only to London in population and importance, not only at the heart of the country's religious life, but also a key player in some of the major events that have shaped the nation. These days a more provincial air hangs over the city, except in summer when York feels like a heritage site for the benefit of tourists. That said, no trip to this part of the country is complete without a visit to the city. York is well placed for any number of day-trips , the most essential being that to Castle Howard , the gem amongst English stately homes.

Take a look at one of the maps dotted around the city centre and you're confronted with a baffling and intimidating prospect. If the tourist office is to be believed, there are around sixty churches, museums and historic buildings crammed within York's walls. In fact the tally of things you really want to see is surprisingly limited, with most sights within easy walking distance of one another. Even so, it's hard to get round everything in less than two days, and equally difficult to stick to any rigid itinerary. The Minster is the obvious place to start, followed by the cluster of buildings that circle it; then you might cut south to the Shambles , central to the city's old centre and pedestrianized grid, or walk around the walls from the Minster to Exhibition Square for the Yorkshire Museum and St Mary's Abbey , evocative ruins surrounded by the city's loveliest gardens. Thereafter you could walk through the main shopping streets to take in the Merchant Adventurers' Hall , most striking of the city's smaller medieval buildings, then deal with Clifford's Tower and the nearby Jorvik Viking Centre and Castle Museum . Lastly, be sure to leave time to take in the National Railway Museum , a superb museum whose appeal goes way beyond railway memorabilia. The York Museums pass gives five days' unlimited access to the Castle Museum, Yorkshire Museum and City Art Gallery, offering a fair saving on entry to these attractions.

York is a year round destination offering a lively cafe, bar and nightclub culture with vibrant entertainment and festivals. York is ideally located roughly two hours by rail from London, Manchester and Edinburgh.

York has its own brewery, which owns several pubs within York and these include the Last Drop Inn on 27 Colliergate, which also has live music by candlelight on Monday and Tuesday nights. The Black Swan on Peasholme Green, an atmospheric Tudor inn, has live music every Sunday, Wednesday and Friday, with everything from jazz to ever-popular folk nights. If you can not decide which pub to go to (York boasts a pub for every day of the year), why not pay a visit to Ye Olde Starre Inn on Stonegate, reputedly York's oldest?

In keeping with much else in the city, many establishments are relentlessly and self-consciously old-fashioned, though there are some real highlights - truly historic pubs , the remarkable Betty's , the ultimate tea-shop experience, and a scattering of well-regarded restaurants . The coffee and café-bar scene has flourished too, with the main chain-names all represented, alongside some honourable independents.

The city has many museums, including the Castle Museum, Yorkshire Museum & Gardens, Richard III Museum and the York Dungeon. The National Railway Museum is situated just behind the station, and is home to the largest static collection of railway locomotives in the world, including the world's fastest steam locomotive LNER 4468 Mallard.

York lies within the Vale of York, and is generally said to be a fairly flat area of land with an unusual amount of green space. The ings are flood meadows along the River Ouse, while the strays are scattered around the city in marshy, low-lying places; the Knavesmire is part of Micklegate Stray. In summer, when they are drier, these areas are used for recreation, and some are grazed by cattle.

York is situated at the confluence of two rivers, the Ouse and the Foss. During Roman times, the land surrounding the rivers was very marshy, making it easier to defend. The city is prone to severe flooding from the River Ouse, and has an extensive (but not always effective) network of flood defences. These include walls along the Ouse, and a barrier across the River Foss where it joins the Ouse. The floods of late October and early November 2000, which were the highest for over 350 years, caused much damage, but the water did not breach the flood walls. Much land within the city has always been too flood-prone for development.

A major railway junction, York is situated on the East Coast, Cross Country and Transpennine mainlines.

The Kings Arms pub during floodsYork is also a major venue for horse racing at York Racecourse in the Knavesmire area, and every year, thousands flock to the city for the Ebor Handicap Meeting in August.

York's economy is based largely on tourism and other service-based industries. This is very different from the position as recently as the 1950s, when York's prosperity was based on chocolate manufacturing and the railways.

York is also noted for its wealth of churches and pubs. Many of the remaining churches in York are from the medieval period. See Medieval churches of York. The York area is said to contain one pub for every day of the year, although this is a little exaggerated. Similarly it has been said that there is no point within the city walls where one can stand and not be able to see at least one pub and at least one church.

Trains arrive at York Station , just outside the city walls on the west side of the River Ouse, roughly half a mile from the historic core. National Express buses and most other regional bus services drop off and pick up on Rougier Street, two hundred yards north of the train station, though National Express services call at the train station, too. There's a tourist office at the train station (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 10am-5pm; Nov-Feb Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm; March Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-5pm; tel 01904/621756), though the main office is in the De Grey Rooms , on Exhibition Square (April-June, Sept & Oct Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 9.30am-6pm; July & Aug daily 9am-7pm; Nov-March Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 9.30am-3pm; tel 01904/621756). There's internet access at Internet Exchange, 13 Stonegate (tel 01904/638808) Coffee Express, 60 Goodramgate (tel 01904/653463), and at the youth hostels.

Walking is the best way to acquaint yourself with the city, and often the only way to get from A to B, given the confused historic layout of pedestrianized streets, alleys and yards. Traveline York , 20 George Hudson St (office Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm; telephone enquiries Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-2pm; tel 01904/551400) can advise about all local and regional bus information. Or consider renting a bike , as York has over 40 miles of cycle lanes and paths - Bob Trotter, 13-15 Lord Mayor's Walk, at Monkgate (tel 01904/622868, ), Cycle Scene, 2 Ratcliffe St tel 01904/653286), and York Cycleworks, 14-16 Lawrence St (tel 01904/626664, ), can provide bikes from around £10 per day, plus a deposit. The tourist offices all push the various bus tours (from £8 per person), but much more interesting are the various guided walks on offer, from evening ghost walks to historical tours, led by the York Association of Voluntary Guides (tel 01904/640780, ). They offer a free, two-hour guided tour throughout the year (daily at 10.15am), plus additional tours in summer (April-June, Sept & Oct at 2.15pm; July & Aug at 2.15pm & 7pm), departing from outside the Art Gallery in Exhibition Square.